Copenhagen
Christianshavn & Christiania
The canal district and the freetown: houseboat living along the canals, the Church of Our Saviour's terrifying external staircase, and the 1971 self-proclaimed autonomous community that is still operating.
About Christianshavn & Christiania
Christianshavn is the canal district east of the city centre, connected by a bridge and separated by the water. The neighbourhood has houseboats moored along the canals, a village atmosphere within the city limits, and some of the most expensive real estate in Copenhagen despite its counterculture associations. The Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers Kirke, DKK 65) has an external spiral staircase that winds around the outside of the 90-metre spire: 400 steps, no handrails on the outer section, and the view over Copenhagen, the harbour, and the Oresund strait is the best paid view in the city. Christiania (Freistaden Christiania) occupies a 34-hectare former military base adjacent to Christianshavn. The autonomous community was established in 1971 and has been in a continuous legal dispute with the Danish government about its status ever since. It operates its own rules (no cars, no guns, no hard drugs), has its own currency, and provides an alternative social model that is either a triumph of collective living or an ongoing problem with property law depending on your perspective. Photography is banned on Pusher Street.
Things to Do
Top experiences in Christianshavn & Christiania
Church of Our Saviour
Church of Our Saviour is a baroque beauty from 1696, but everyone comes for one thing: that spiraling external staircase wrapping around the golden spire. You'll climb 400 steps total, with the final 150 on the narrow outdoor helix that gets your heart racing. The 360-degree views from 90 meters up showcase all of Copenhagen, from the colorful Nyhavn canal to the Øresund Bridge stretching toward Sweden. The climb starts inside through a traditional church interior, then transitions to wooden stairs within the spire before emerging onto the famous golden spiral. The outdoor portion feels precarious but thrilling, with the staircase getting narrower as you ascend. Wind whips around you as Copenhagen spreads below, and the spire's twisted design creates constantly changing perspectives. The final platform barely fits six people, so expect brief waits during busy periods. Most guides don't mention the real challenge: it costs 65 DKK per adult and the outdoor stairs close frequently for weather. High winds, rain, or ice shut down access with little warning, especially October through March. Skip the interior church tour unless you're genuinely interested in baroque architecture. The climb takes most people 20-30 minutes up and 15 minutes down, but your legs will feel it the next day.
Amager Fælled
A 223-hectare urban nature reserve offering wild meadows, wetlands, and coastal areas just south of the city center. This former military exercise ground is now a haven for birdwatchers, cyclists, and nature lovers, with over 100 bird species recorded and rare orchids blooming in summer. The flat terrain and dedicated bike paths make it ideal for easy cycling through genuinely wild Copenhagen nature.
Where to Eat
Restaurants and cafes in Christianshavn & Christiania
Restaurant Barr
RestaurantLocated in Noma's former space, focusing on North Sea coastal cuisine from Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands. The beer hall atmosphere combines with refined cooking—think smoked eel, pork schnitzel, and brown butter. The beer list features rare Scandinavian microbrews.
Restaurant Kanalen
RestaurantWaterfront dining directly on Christianshavn's canal with views of the Børsen spire and colorful buildings. The menu focuses on Danish classics like flæskesteg and herring platters, served on a floating terrace in summer. The location alone makes it memorable.
Christianshavns Bådudlejning og Café
CafeWaterside café with kayak and boat rentals located right on the canal. Enjoy coffee and pastries on the floating dock while watching canal life, or rent a kayak to explore Copenhagen's waterways. A quintessential Christianshavn experience combining hygge with outdoor adventure.
Parterre
CafeCozy neighborhood café and restaurant serving organic, seasonal Nordic cuisine with a focus on vegetables. The intimate space features mismatched vintage furniture and a welcoming atmosphere. Popular among locals for both weekend brunch and casual dinners.
Kadeau Copenhagen
RestaurantMichelin-starred restaurant bringing Bornholm island's ingredients and cooking techniques to Copenhagen. The tasting menu features smoked and fermented dishes, coastal herbs, and exceptional fish. The harbor views and modern Nordic interior match the ambitious cooking.
Nightlife
Bars and nightlife in Christianshavn & Christiania
Getting Here
Getting There
Christianshavn station (Lines M1 and M2) is at the centre of the neighbourhood.
On Foot
Flat. A 15-minute walk from Nyhavn via the bridge.
By Bike
Cycling from Nyhavn takes 5 minutes via the harbour bridge.
Insider Tips
Church of Our Saviour: go on a clear morning
The external spiral staircase of the Church of Our Saviour (DKK 65, DKK 95 with the interior) becomes significantly more frightening in wind or rain. The outer section of the staircase has no safety net and the steps narrow at the top. Go when the sky is clear and you will see to Sweden. The staircase is 400 steps total; most people manage it in 15-20 minutes if they stop for the view at intervals. Book online to avoid the queue in summer.
Christiania: go with curiosity, not expectations
Christiania is not a performance for tourists. Walk in through the main entrance on Prinsessegade, follow Pusher Street (do not photograph this section), and continue into the quieter residential areas at the back: the lake, the organic farm, the workshops, and the community buildings are what the freetown actually is. The restaurants at Christiania (Morgenstedet vegetarian cafe, DKK 80-120) serve the community. The evening music scene at Christiania Batsmanden is authentic and open to visitors. Respect the posted rules.
Nearby Neighborhoods
Continue exploring
Nyhavn & Indre By
The city centre and its famous canal: coloured townhouses on the water, the pedestrian shopping spine, the round tower, the royal palace, and the square where everything converges.
Vesterbro
The neighbourhood that went from red-light district to Copenhagen's most interesting area in 20 years: Meatpacking District restaurants and bars, Mikkeller craft beer, and the most diverse food street in the city.
Norrebro
The multicultural neighbourhood north of the centre where Copenhageners actually live: the cemetery-as-park, ceramics and coffee on Jagersborggade, the colourful Superkilen park, and food prices that make sense.
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