Spice Souk

The Spice Souk in Deira is a five-minute walk from the Gold Souk and the smell alone is worth the visit. Saffron, cardamom, frankincense, dried lemons, cinnamon, cumin, and spice blends in burlap sacks stacked to the ceiling. The vendors are friendly, knowledgeable, and not aggressive, which is a welcome change from the Gold Souk's more persistent sellers.

Saffron is the main draw for buyers. A bag that costs EUR40-60 in a European supermarket goes for AED 30-50 here, and the quality is genuine. Buy whole threads, not powder, and check that the colour is deep red-orange (not bright yellow, which indicates turmeric filler). Frankincense and oud are the other popular purchases, both excellent gifts and both dramatically cheaper than in Western shops.

The Perfume Souk nearby (a 3-minute walk) sells oud-based perfumes, Arabic attars, and perfume oils. The vendors will blend custom scents for you, which is a fun experience even if you do not buy. The whole souk district, Spice, Gold, Perfume, and Textile, is compact enough to cover in a 2-3 hour morning walk.

The souks are covered and shaded, making them comfortable year-round. The best time to visit is morning (10 AM-1 PM) when the vendors are setting up and the light filters through the roofing. Evening visits (5-7 PM) have better atmosphere as the souk lights come on and the evening trade begins. Arrive by abra from Bur Dubai for the full experience.