Crete

Crete is the largest Greek island and behaves least like one. It has its own mountain range, its own cuisine distinct from mainland Greece, and an attitude toward Athens that ranges from polite indifference to cheerful defiance. The Minoans built Europe's first civilization here 4,000 years ago, the beaches compete with any in the Mediterranean, and the food is the best in Greece at prices that make the mainland look expensive. The north coast strings together four distinct areas. Heraklion has the airport, the archaeological museum, and Knossos 15 minutes away. Chania in the west has the Venetian harbour, the best restaurant scene on the island, and access to Elafonisi and Balos beaches. Rethymno sits in between with a quieter old town and the closest access to Samaria Gorge. Agios Nikolaos in the east anchors the calmer, resort-oriented side with Spinalonga island and the Lasithi plateau. The food is reason enough to come. Dakos (the Cretan bruschetta), lamb with stamnagathi (wild greens), and boureki (zucchini-potato pie) cost EUR 8-12 at village tavernas. Raki appears unprompted after every meal, and the waiter will look offended if you try to pay for it.