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The Oltrarno is a 5-minute walk from the Uffizi and feels like a different city. Artisan workshops, Palazzo Pitti, Boboli Gardens, aperitivo on Piazza Santo Spirito, and dinner at a trattoria where the menu is handwritten.

The bistecca alla fiorentina is a minimum 1 kg, rare, Chianina beef, EUR 45-60 for two. The lampredotto is EUR 4 from a street cart. The gelato in the tall bright piles is made from powder. The Oltrarno has the best neighbourhood dining.

The Uffizi, Accademia, and Duomo dome all require advance booking. Gelato in tall bright piles is made from powder. July and August are brutal. The Oltrarno has better food at lower prices. Everything else you need before you arrive.

Florence with children is about choosing three things per day instead of eight. The secret passages in Palazzo Vecchio, the dome climb, Boboli Gardens for space, and a systematic gelato ranking exercise.

Five days covering the major museums, the Oltrarno lived experience, a day in the Chianti wine region, and a day trip to Siena with the most beautiful square in Italy.

Three days covering the Uffizi, the Accademia, the Duomo dome, and the Oltrarno, with exact prices, queue-skipping strategies, and the lampredotto sandwich you should eat before you leave.
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