Gallerie d'Italia Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano

This 17th-century palazzo holds Naples' finest collection of Baroque paintings, centered around Caravaggio's last masterpiece, The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula. You'll find works by Luca Giordano, Francesco Solimena, and other masters who defined Neapolitan painting during the Spanish viceregal period. The frescoed salons themselves are artworks, with gilded ceilings and marble floors that showcase aristocratic life at its peak.

You enter through a grand marble staircase that sets the tone for three floors of opulent rooms. The Caravaggio gets its own climate-controlled space where you can study the violent brushstrokes and dramatic lighting up close. Each salon flows into the next, creating a journey through centuries of religious and mythological scenes. The quieter third floor often gets overlooked but contains some of the most intimate portraits.

Most visitors rush straight to the Caravaggio and miss the context that makes it special. The audio guide costs €5 but adds crucial backstory about the Spanish influence on Neapolitan art. Skip the ground floor gift shop, it's overpriced tourist items. Entry is free, making this one of Naples' best cultural bargains, though they sometimes close unexpectedly for private events.