Nice
Port & Quartier du Port
The working harbour east of the Colline du Chateau: pleasure boats, the seafood brasseries of Place Garibaldi, the Monday flea market, and the antiques district that serves Nice's serious collectors.
About Port & Quartier du Port
The Port quarter sits on the eastern side of the Colline du Chateau, separated from Old Nice by the hill and connected to it by the tunnel under the promontory. The harbour (Port Lympia) was built in the 18th century and today mixes pleasure boats with the Corsica ferry terminals: the orange and white Corsica Ferries boats depart from here for Bastia and Ajaccio several times a week.
Place Garibaldi is the architectural set piece of the neighbourhood: a large arcaded square in neo-classical style, painted in ochre, with restaurants under the arches and a statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi (born in Nice in 1807, when the city was still part of Piedmont). The restaurants on Place Garibaldi are more local and better value than anything on the Cours Saleya. Cafe de Turin on the north side of the square is a Nice institution: a traditional seafood brasserie with marble tables and white-aproned waiters, open since 1908. A plateau de fruits de mer (seafood platter: oysters, clams, prawns, whelks, sea urchins in season) costs EUR 25-60 depending on size. The sea urchins at Cafe de Turin in winter are the best argument for visiting Nice out of season.
The antiques district runs along Rue Antoine Gautier and the streets north of the port: furniture, ceramics, silver, and paintings at prices significantly lower than the equivalent in Paris or Cannes. On Monday mornings, Place du Pin hosts the flea market that replaces the Cours Saleya antique market on the same day, and the Port quarter's dealers set out their better pieces on this day.
Getting Here
On Foot
Flat and walkable. The tunnel under the Colline du Chateau connects directly to Old Nice on foot in 10 minutes.
Insider Tips
Cafe de Turin
The seafood brasserie at Place Garibaldi (open since 1908, no reservations). Go for the plateau de fruits de mer: ask the waiter for the current day's plateau by size (petit from EUR 25, grand from EUR 45). In October to March, order the oursins (sea urchins): split open at the table, eaten with brown bread and butter, EUR 2-3 each. Arrive at noon or at 7 PM to avoid a wait. Cash and card both accepted.
The Monday market
On Monday, the Cours Saleya food market is replaced by an antique market, and the Port quarter's dealers also set out. The flea market at Place du Pin runs Monday mornings from around 8 AM to 1 PM. The Port antiques district (Rue Antoine Gautier and surrounding streets) has the better quality pieces: furniture, silver, 19th-century paintings. Prices are negotiable, especially after noon.
Getting to the Port quarter
The Port quarter is a 10-minute walk from Old Nice through the tunnel under the Colline du Chateau (or over the hill in 20 minutes via the stairs or lift). Tram 1 has a stop at Garibaldi which puts you directly at Place Garibaldi. The neighbourhood is flat and easy to walk once you arrive.
Nearby Neighborhoods
Continue exploring
Vieux-Nice & Cours Saleya
The Baroque old town and its morning market: narrow carruggi painted in ochre and rose, Cours Saleya socca stalls and flower vendors, the hill above, and the best concentration of Nicois restaurants in the city.
Promenade des Anglais & Seafront
Seven kilometres of seafront walk with blue chairs, pebble beaches with transparent water, the Hotel Negresco dome, and the social life of Nice spread along the bay from morning to evening.
Cimiez
The quiet residential hilltop where Matisse lived and the world's two best single-artist museums sit in an olive grove above the city, surrounded by Roman ruins and a monastery garden.
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