Santorini
Perissa, Kamari & East
The beach coast and the budget side of Santorini: black sand beaches with beach clubs, the medieval hilltop village, wine estates, and the restaurants where locals actually eat.
About Perissa, Kamari & East
The east coast is where Santorini meets the sea at beach level rather than cliff height. Perissa has the longest black sand beach with beach clubs (lounger EUR 15-25 including a drink), the most backpacker-friendly accommodation (EUR 30-50/night), and the cheapest restaurants on the island (EUR 12-20 for a full meal). Kamari is similar but slightly more upscale, with an open-air cinema on the beach and the trailhead for Ancient Thera (EUR 6, the Hellenistic ruins on the mountain between the two beaches). Inland, Pyrgos is the medieval hilltop village with the Franco Castelo fortress, 360-degree views, and none of the souvenir shops. Megalochori is a traditional village with wine estates and whitewashed architecture. This side of the island is where budget travellers stay and where the locals eat.
Things to Do
Top experiences in Perissa, Kamari & East
Pyrgos
Pyrgos sits 370 meters above sea level, making it Santorini's highest village and home to the medieval Franco Castelo fortress ruins. You'll climb through narrow cobblestone streets past whitewashed houses, blue-domed churches, and working windmills to reach the Kasteli summit. The 360-degree views stretch from the airport and eastern beaches to Oia's cliffs and the caldera, with vineyards carpeting the slopes below. Unlike touristy Oia, this feels like a real Greek village where locals still outnumber visitors. The walk up takes about 15 minutes through maze-like alleys barely wide enough for a donkey. Traditional houses cascade down the hillside, many converted into small galleries and cafes run by families who've lived here for generations. At the top, you'll explore Byzantine church ruins and Venetian fortification walls while the wind whips around you. The silence is striking after Fira's chaos, broken only by church bells and the occasional motorbike navigating the narrow streets below. Most visitors rush straight to the fortress and miss the village itself, which is a mistake. The best tavernas are halfway up the hill, not at the summit where prices jump 30% for the view. Selene Restaurant costs 80-120 EUR per person, while family-run spots like Metaxi Mas offer better food for 25-35 EUR. Skip the overpriced summit cafes completely and bring water, the climb is steeper than it looks and there's little shade.
Santorini Volcano and Hot Springs Boat Trip
This boat trip takes you to two volcanic islets formed by Santorini's ongoing volcanic activity: Nea Kameni with its active crater and Palea Kameni with naturally heated sulfur springs. You'll hike 20 minutes across black volcanic rock to reach steaming vents where you can feel the earth's heat through your shoes, then swim in orange-tinted thermal waters that stay warm year-round. The boat ride itself offers unbeatable views of Santorini's caldera cliffs from sea level, something you can't get any other way. The experience starts with a slightly chaotic boarding process at either Fira's old port (reached by cable car or donkey) or the larger Athinios port. Once on the volcanic islands, the terrain is genuinely otherworldly: sharp black rocks, sulfur smells, and patches of ground hot enough to steam. The hot springs aren't like a spa, they're murky orange seawater warmed by underwater volcanic vents, and you'll need to swim about 30 meters from the boat to reach the warmest spots. Most tours cost between 15-25 EUR and feel rushed, giving you just 30 minutes on each island. The volcano hike is worth it if you've never seen active volcanic terrain, but skip this if you're expecting dramatic lava flows or crystal-clear hot springs. Go in the morning when it's cooler for hiking, and honestly, the boat ride and caldera views are often more impressive than the destinations themselves.
Ancient Thera
Ancient Thera sprawls across a windswept ridge 360 meters above the Aegean, delivering the best archaeological site on Santorini that most tourists skip. You'll walk through genuine Hellenistic streets lined with house foundations, peek into a 2,000-year-old theater carved into rock, and explore temple ruins dedicated to Apollo Karneios. The Byzantine church of Agios Stefanos anchors the eastern end, while a gymnasium complex shows how ancient Greeks actually lived and trained. The site feels authentically ancient rather than reconstructed, with original stone streets underfoot and walls rising to waist height in places. Wind whips constantly across the exposed ridge, carrying scents of wild thyme and creating an almost mystical atmosphere as you move between ruins. Information boards explain each structure clearly, though you'll want to bring sun protection since there's zero shade. The views stretch across both black sand beaches below, with Anafi island floating on the eastern horizon. Most guidebooks oversell this as essential, but it's genuinely rewarding if you enjoy ruins more than Instagram spots. The 5 EUR entrance fee feels fair for what you get, though the site lacks the drama of mainland Greek archaeology. Skip it if you're not genuinely interested in ancient history, but prioritize the theater area and eastern viewpoint if you do visit. The access road from Kamari takes 15 minutes but feels longer on the hairpin turns.
Where to Eat
Restaurants and cafes in Perissa, Kamari & East
Getting Here
Getting There
Bus from Fira to Perissa every 30 min (EUR 2.50, 30 min). Bus to Kamari every 30 min (EUR 1.80, 20 min).
On Foot
Flat along the beach. Perissa and Kamari are separated by the Mesa Vouno mountain (no walking path; take the water taxi EUR 5).
Insider Tips
Perissa vs Kamari
Perissa is cheaper and more backpacker-friendly. Kamari is slightly more upscale with better restaurants. Both have the same black sand. The open-air cinema in Kamari (EUR 8-10, films in English) is a good evening option. Ancient Thera on the mountain between them (EUR 6, steep path) has the best views on this side.
Pyrgos for the caldera view without the caldera price
Pyrgos is the highest village on Santorini with 360-degree views including the caldera, but none of the tourist markup. Dinner at Franco's Cafe (caldera view, EUR 25-35 pp) costs half what the same view costs in Oia. The sunset from the Franco Castelo fortress is free.
Nearby Neighborhoods
Continue exploring
Oia
The northern tip of the island and the village of the famous sunset: blue domes, kasteli ruins, Ammoudi Bay 300 steps below, and the most expensive restaurants on the island.
Fira & Firostefani
The capital and its quieter neighbour connected by the best free walk on the island: the cable car, the museums, the widest restaurant selection, and the caldera path with the famous Three Bells church.
Akrotiri & South
The archaeological and beach zone: the Minoan city buried by a volcano, volcanic red-and-black beaches, the lighthouse sunset alternative, and wineries with caldera views.
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