Where to Eat in Siena: Pici, Panforte & Chianti Classico
Pici with wild boar ragu for EUR 10, ricciarelli for EUR 2, and Chianti from the vineyards you can see from the city walls
Siena food guide: pici pasta (EUR 10-14), ribollita, ricciarelli and panforte, Chianti Classico by the glass, and where to eat without the Campo view tax.
THE SIENA DISHES
Pici (EUR 10-14) is the dish that defines Siena. These thick hand-rolled pasta strands look rustic because they are supposed to: rough, chewy, substantial. The texture is the entire point. You'll find them with two classic sauces. Ragu di cinghiale (wild boar) is slow-cooked until the meat falls apart, rich and earthy. Cacio e pepe is simpler but excellent when done right: just cheese, pepper, and pasta water. Ribollita (EUR 8-10) is the Tuscan peasant soup made with bread and vegetables that sounds boring but tastes like comfort in a bowl. Bistecca alla fiorentina is technically Florentine but available here for EUR 40-50 per kg, meant to be shared between two people. For sweets, ricciarelli (EUR 2-4) are Siena's soft almond cookies dusted with icing sugar: chewy and not too sweet. Panforte (EUR 2-4 per slice) is the dense spiced fruit and nut cake that dates to the 13th century. Buy it at Nannini on Via Banchi di Sopra. End your meal properly with cantucci and vin santo (EUR 6-8): almond biscotti dipped in sweet dessert wine.
CHIANTI CLASSICO
Siena sits at the southern edge of the Chianti Classico wine region. You can see the vineyards from the city walls. A glass at a restaurant costs EUR 4-6, and you can buy a bottle at a wine shop for EUR 8-15 for good quality. The wine is exactly what you expect: dry, medium-bodied, pairs perfectly with wild boar ragu. If you want to spend more, Brunello di Montalcino (from 50 km south) and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano are the premium options at EUR 8-12 per glass. Both are excellent, but Chianti Classico at half the price tastes just as good with your pici.
BY NEIGHBOURHOOD
Campo area
The restaurants on the square charge 20-30% more for the view. Worth it once for a EUR 3-4 coffee to sit and watch the tourists, not for a full meal. The side streets behind Via di Citta and Via Banchi di Sopra have trattorias serving lunch for EUR 10-15 with the same food at normal prices.
Duomo area
Quieter restaurants near the cathedral with similar quality and prices to the back streets. You pay the same but eat without the Campo chaos.
North (Selva)
Local trattorias with no English menus and lunch for EUR 10-14. This is the most authentic food in Siena because tourists can't figure out what to order.
South (San Martino)
The fewest tourists and the best value. Lunch specials run EUR 8-12. The walk from the center takes 10 minutes but saves you 30% on your meal.
TIMING
Lunch is 12:30-2:30 PM. Many trattorias close between lunch and dinner (3-7 PM), so don't expect to eat at 4 PM like a tourist. Dinner starts at 7:30 PM, and restaurants fill up at 8-8:30 PM. Show up at 7:30 PM for a table or make a reservation. Bakeries selling ricciarelli and panforte open from 8 AM, perfect for breakfast pastry and coffee before the sightseeing crowds arrive.
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