Van Gogh Museum

The largest collection of Van Gogh's work on earth houses more than 200 paintings and 500 drawings, arranged in a chronological order that shows his style evolve from the dark potato-eating peasants of Nuenen to the swirling skies of Saint-Remy. The museum handles crowds by limiting entry to timed slots, but it often sells out weeks ahead. Booking the earliest morning slot (usually 9 AM) allows you to have the galleries nearly to yourself for the first 45 minutes.

Begin on the second floor with the self-portraits and work down. The chronological layout is the primary point: you see him teaching himself to paint in the Netherlands, discovering colour in Paris, losing his mind in Arles, and producing his most notable work during his final years. The Bedroom at Arles, Sunflowers, Almond Blossom, and Wheatfield with Crows are all on display. The letters to his brother Theo are displayed alongside the paintings and provide context. You realize he wasn't some tortured genius working in isolation; he was a thoughtful, articulate person who analyzed his own process obsessively.

The museum building was designed by Gerrit Rietveld in 1973 and is connected to a newer wing by Kisho Kurokawa. The temporary exhibitions on the ground floor are consistently good, usually pairing Van Gogh with his contemporaries or influences. The museum shop is genuinely good, offering products beyond the usual tote-bag-and-magnet range. Allow two to three hours for your visit. Tickets cost €20, and the Friday evening sessions run until 9 PM with a bar and a DJ in the lobby.