Celler Sa Premsa

This former wine cellar hasn't changed much in decades, and that's exactly the point. The massive wooden barrels still dominate the whitewashed walls, and locals still crowd the long communal tables every lunch service from 1pm sharp. Don't expect modern comforts or Instagram-worthy plating here.

The menu is handwritten in Catalan and Spanish, but the waiters speak enough English to get you sorted. They're famously no-nonsense, bordering on gruff, but they know their stuff. Order the frit mallorqui (€8) if you want the real deal: chunks of lamb offal and potatoes fried with peppers and onions. It's an acquired taste, so maybe start with the safer tumbet (€6), essentially Mallorca's answer to ratatouille with layers of aubergine, courgette and tomato.

The arros brut (€12 for two) is their standout: a soupy rice dish with whatever meat and vegetables are fresh that day. It arrives bubbling in a clay pot and tastes like someone's grandmother spent all morning making it. Skip the wine unless you're feeling adventurous, the house red is rough around the edges.

Portions are enormous. Two people can easily share three dishes and still leave satisfied. The total damage rarely exceeds €25 per person. Book ahead or arrive right at opening, especially on weekends when three generations of Palma families descend for their weekly feast. The atmosphere gets properly lively by 2pm, with animated conversations echoing off the barrel-lined walls.