Comptoir de la Gastronomie

This 130-year-old charcuterie operates exactly as it did when Les Halles was Paris's central food market-the front counter displays dozens of terrines, pâtés, and prepared dishes behind glass, while the cramped back dining room seats maybe 30 people at marble-topped tables. The foie gras selection runs from affordable mousse to premium whole lobes, and their cassoulet comes in proper earthenware pots.

You'll squeeze past other customers browsing the narrow shop front, where staff in white coats slice charcuterie to order and wrap purchases in brown paper. The restaurant feels like eating in someone's storage room-wine bottles line the walls, servers navigate tight spaces between tables, and the kitchen is basically visible from most seats. Lunch service moves efficiently despite the cramped quarters.

The shop prices beat most gourmet stores, but the restaurant markup is steep-a simple terrine costs three times more plated than purchased from the counter. Skip the touristy restaurant unless you're determined to eat where Hemingway allegedly dined. Focus on the retail side: their rillettes and duck confit travel well, and the staff actually knows their products unlike most Paris gourmet shops.