Musée Rodin

This 18th-century mansion houses Rodin's personal collection alongside his most famous sculptures, displayed exactly where he lived and worked until 1917. The Thinker broods in the front garden while The Gates of Hell dominates the rear courtyard, but the real revelation is seeing smaller works like The Hand of God up close in intimate salon rooms with original parquet floors and period furniture.

The visit flows naturally from the grand entrance hall through interconnected rooms where marble and bronze pieces are arranged almost casually on antique tables and pedestals. The garden steals the show-three hectares of perfectly manicured grounds where you can walk right up to The Burghers of Calais and discover lesser-known works tucked between rose beds. The view of the Invalides dome from the back terrace is unexpectedly spectacular.

Most people rush through the interior rooms to get to the famous outdoor sculptures, but they're missing the best part. The marble version of The Kiss inside is far superior to the bronze copy everyone photographs in the garden. Skip the temporary exhibitions unless you're a serious sculpture enthusiast-the permanent collection provides more than enough to absorb. Come on weekday mornings when the garden light is softest and tour groups haven't arrived.