Prague
Žižkov
Prague's grittiest neighbourhood: the TV Tower with crawling babies, the most pubs per capita in the city, and the local character that gentrification has not yet erased.
About Žižkov
Žižkov is Prague's working-class neighbourhood that became its most characterful. The Žižkov TV Tower (CZK 300) is the landmark: a 216-metre brutalist spike with David Černý's giant crawling babies clinging to its sides. The observation deck has 360-degree views. The neighbourhood has more pubs per capita than anywhere in Prague, possibly in Europe: traditional Czech beer halls where a half-litre costs CZK 40-55 and the clientele is entirely local. The National Memorial on Vítkov Hill (free entry to the viewing terrace) has the largest equestrian statue in Europe and panoramic views. The Olšany Cemetery and the New Jewish Cemetery (where Kafka is buried) are both here.
Things to Do
Top experiences in Žižkov
Žižkov Television Tower
Prague's 216-meter concrete TV tower divides opinion like no other landmark, but the 360-degree views from its observation decks at 93 meters are undeniably spectacular. You'll spot Prague Castle, the Vltava snaking through the city, and rooftops stretching to the horizon. The tower's most famous feature is David Černý's ten giant bronze baby sculptures crawling up and down the exterior, each weighing 250 kilograms and looking appropriately bizarre against the brutalist concrete. The high-speed elevator shoots you up in seconds to three observation levels where floor-to-ceiling windows frame the entire city. The atmosphere feels distinctly modern and sterile compared to Prague's medieval towers, but that's exactly why the views work so well. You can walk around each circular level freely, and there's an outdoor viewing platform on the lower observation deck where wind and weather make the experience more dramatic. The babies look even more surreal from up here, their faceless forms seeming to move as you change angles. Most guides won't mention that 300 CZK feels steep for what you get, especially since you can see similar views from Petřin Hill for free. The restaurant up here is overpriced tourist food, so eat elsewhere. Your best strategy is timing your visit for golden hour when Prague's red roofs glow beautifully. Skip the one-room hotel unless you're after bragging rights, it's more novelty than comfort.
Restaurace Akropolis
Restaurace Akropolis is Prague's most important alternative cultural space, a rambling multi-room complex that's been hosting everything from experimental theater to world music since 1993. You'll find three distinct areas: the ground-floor restaurant serving solid international dishes (mains 180-280 CZK), the intimate upstairs club for smaller gigs, and the main hall that packs in 400 people for bigger acts. The summer garden terrace becomes the heart of the action when weather permits. Walking through feels like exploring an art student's fever dream. Mismatched furniture, concert posters from decades past, and dim lighting create an authentically bohemian atmosphere that most Prague venues try to fake. The restaurant buzzes with pre-show energy while musicians sound-check in adjacent rooms. You'll hear snippets of conversations in multiple languages as local artists mix with international touring acts and curious tourists who've wandered in from touristy Vinohrady. Most guides oversell the food, which is perfectly decent but not the main attraction. Come for concerts (tickets 200-600 CZK depending on the act) and treat dinner as fuel rather than fine dining. The upstairs club books genuinely interesting acts that bigger venues won't touch, while the main hall gets crowded and sweaty fast. Skip weekend evenings unless you've got tickets, as it's often booked for private events.
Riegrovy Sady
Riegrovy Sady sprawls across terraced hillsides in Vinohrady, offering Prague's best combination of green space and cold beer with a view. The 1904 park design creates natural amphitheater levels where locals spread blankets for picnics, kick footballs on sloping grass, and gather at wooden tables in the legendary beer garden. You'll find mature chestnut trees providing shade, open lawns perfect for frisbee, and eastern terraces that frame Prague Castle beautifully. The experience flows naturally from exploration to relaxation. You'll wander tree lined paths connecting different terrace levels, each offering distinct views across red tile rooftops toward the castle or city center. The beer garden dominates the upper section with long communal tables where conversations flow easily between strangers. Evenings bring guitar players, dog walkers, and young professionals unwinding after work, creating an authentically local atmosphere that tourist spots lack. Most guides overhype this as a major attraction when it's really just a solid neighborhood park with great beer. The Pilsner Urquell costs 45 CZK, which is standard for Prague. Skip coming in winter when the beer garden closes and the grass turns muddy. The eastern terrace benches fill up by 6pm on sunny days, so arrive earlier or accept standing room. Don't expect manicured gardens, this place prioritizes function over beauty.
Parukářka Park
Parukářka Park sits on a hilltop in Žižkov, giving you some of the best panoramic views in Prague without the tourist crowds. You'll see the entire city spread out below, from Prague Castle to the TV Tower, while locals play football, walk their dogs, and kids run wild on the large playground. The beer garden serves cold Pilsner Urquell for around 45 CZK, and the open meadows are perfect for picnics or just lying in the grass. The park feels authentically Prague in a way that Petřín Hill doesn't. Families gather for weekend barbecues, teenagers skateboard near the pavilion, and old men play chess under the trees. The western slope offers the money shot views, especially as the light changes throughout the day. You'll hear Czech conversations, smell grilled klobása, and watch the city's rhythm from above without fighting through selfie sticks. Most guides barely mention this place, which keeps it relatively quiet even on sunny weekends. The playground gets packed with local families after 4pm, so come earlier if you want peaceful photo ops. Skip the eastern section entirely, it's just residential buildings and construction. The beer garden closes at sunset, so grab drinks before heading to the viewpoint for golden hour.
Where to Eat
Restaurants and cafes in Žižkov
Pivní Lokál U Houdků
RestaurantTraditional Czech beer hall serving Pilsner Urquell and classic pub dishes in a no-nonsense setting. Popular with locals for its proper beer pours, affordable prices, and hearty portions of svíčková, goulash, and other Czech staples. The atmosphere is authentic neighborhood tavern without any tourist polish.
Pavlač
RestaurantAuthentic neighborhood pivnice serving traditional Czech pub food and excellent Pilsner Urquell in a no-frills setting frequented by locals. The smoky atmosphere and old-school tile interior transport you to a genuine Prague beer hall untouched by tourism.
Nightlife
Bars and nightlife in Žižkov
Hospůdka U Vystřelenýho Oka
NightlifeLegendary Žižkov dive bar decorated entirely with one-eyed iconography, paying homage to Jan Žižka, the one-eyed Hussite general. Serves cheap Czech beer and simple pub food in an authentically gritty atmosphere beloved by locals. The walls are covered with posters, paintings, and memorabilia all featuring eyes and eye patches.
Bukowski's Bar
NightlifeLiterary-themed cocktail bar named after the American writer Charles Bukowski. Features creative cocktails, regular poetry readings, and live music in an intimate, bohemian setting. The walls are decorated with books and literary quotes, attracting Prague's artistic crowd and culture enthusiasts.
Getting Here
Insider Tips
TV Tower
CZK 300 for the observation deck. David Černý's crawling babies on the outside are Prague's most photographed modern art. The view is 360 degrees and on clear days you see to the mountains. There is a restaurant and a one-room hotel up there too.
Pub crawl potential
Walk along Bořivojova street and the side streets between the TV Tower and Flora metro. You will pass more pubs than shops. U Sadu, Sedm Vlků, and Bukowski's Bar are starting points. Half-litres CZK 40-55.
Kafka's grave
New Jewish Cemetery on Izraelská street. Kafka's grave is in Section 21, Row 14. Follow the signs from the entrance. Free entry. Most visitors to Prague never come here.
Nearby Neighborhoods
Continue exploring
Staré Město
Prague's medieval core: the Astronomical Clock, Gothic churches, Baroque palaces, and the narrow lanes that have not changed in 600 years.
Malá Strana
Prague's Baroque quarter: palace gardens, cobbled lanes, hidden courtyards, and the romantic atmosphere that the Old Town has traded for souvenir shops.
Hradčany
The castle hilltop: the largest castle complex in the world, a Gothic cathedral, a medieval lane, and the monastery library that Instagram made famous.
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