Edinburgh
Leith
Edinburgh's port district 3 miles from the Old Town: the Royal Yacht Britannia, The Shore waterfront restaurants, the Pitt Market street food scene, and the best serious dining in the city.
About Leith
Leith was Edinburgh's port for centuries and is technically a separate burgh that was only absorbed into Edinburgh in 1920 - a fact that Leithers still mention with mild resentment. The district declined in the 20th century as the docks contracted, and it had a rough reputation into the 1980s (Irvine Welsh set Trainspotting here). The regeneration that followed has been substantial: The Shore, the waterfront strip along the Water of Leith near the docks, now has several of Scotland's best restaurants. The Royal Yacht Britannia at Ocean Terminal (GBP 19, 1.5-2 hours, the most visited paid tourist attraction in Scotland) draws visitors from the city centre. The Pitt Market on Pitt Street (Friday-Sunday, GBP 8-14 for street food) is the best street food market in Edinburgh. Martin Wishart restaurant on The Shore holds a Michelin star and requires booking weeks ahead (GBP 60-90 per person for dinner).
Things to Do
Top experiences in Leith
Royal Yacht Britannia
HMY Britannia served as the British Royal Family's floating residence from 1954 to 1997, when she was decommissioned following a decision by the incoming Labour government not to fund a replacement. She is now permanently moored at Ocean Terminal in Leith and open to visitors as one of the most detailed preserved royal vessels in the world. The tour (self-guided with audio guide, included in ticket price) covers five decks: the State Apartments where the Queen and Prince Philip hosted world leaders and dignitaries (the last dinner service for 56 people is still set in the State Dining Room), the Sun Lounge where the Royal Family relaxed, the engine room (operational until 1997), the crew quarters (220 sailors lived in conditions visibly more cramped than the royal decks above), and the bridge. The Britannia operated 968 official voyages across 44 years and covered over one million nautical miles. GBP 19 adult, GBP 10.50 child. Allow 1.5-2 hours for the full tour. The Ocean Terminal shopping centre is adjacent if you need lunch before or after. Britannia is the most visited paid tourist attraction in Scotland. It is in Leith, 3 miles from the city centre: get there by Lothian Bus (route 11 or 22 from Princes Street, 20-25 minutes, GBP 1.80) or taxi (GBP 8-10).
Leith Market
A vibrant weekend market housed in a restored Victorian warehouse featuring local food vendors, street food, craft beer, and artisan goods. The atmosphere is lively with communal seating and regular live music performances. It's a social hub that showcases Edinburgh's creative food scene.
Leith Theatre
A beautifully restored Art Deco theatre and ballroom that hosts concerts, club nights, markets, and cultural events. This community-owned venue was saved from demolition by local campaigners and has become a beloved cultural landmark. The stunning original features and sprung dancefloor make it a unique space in Edinburgh.
Biscuit Factory
A creative hub and events space in a converted Victorian biscuit factory, hosting regular markets, vintage fairs, and community events. The building retains its industrial character with exposed brick and original features. It's a favorite among locals for weekend browsing and discovering independent makers.
Trinity House Maritime Museum
A hidden gem housed in a stunning neoclassical building that was once the headquarters of a maritime guild. The museum displays nautical artifacts, historic ship models, and tells the story of Leith's seafaring heritage. The ornate meeting rooms and original architectural features make this a fascinating glimpse into maritime history.
Where to Eat
Restaurants and cafes in Leith
The Kitchin
RestaurantMichelin-starred restaurant on Leith's waterfront focusing on nature-to-plate Scottish ingredients. Chef Tom Kitchin's seasonal tasting menus run GBP 95-135 per person, with dishes like Orkney scallops and Perthshire venison. The lunch menu at GBP 39 for three courses is the best value entry point.
The Ship on The Shore
RestaurantSeafood-focused pub on Leith's waterfront with daily fish deliveries and an extensive whisky selection. The Cullen skink (smoked haddock soup, GBP 7.50) and whole crab (market price, usually GBP 18-24) are excellent. The upstairs dining room overlooks the old harbor.
Williams & Johnson Coffee Co.
CafeA specialty coffee roastery and café serving meticulously prepared coffee in a minimalist industrial space. They roast their own beans on-site and the baristas are passionate about coffee craft. The atmosphere is relaxed with excellent pastries from local bakers to complement your brew.
Getting Here
On Foot
Leith is flat and walkable within the neighbourhood. The walk from the city centre is 3 miles and takes 50-60 minutes: most visitors take the bus.
Insider Tips
The Shore for dinner, not the city centre
The Shore waterfront in Leith has multiple good restaurants within 200 metres of each other: The Kitchin (Michelin starred, GBP 50-80 per person), Martin Wishart (Michelin starred, GBP 60-90, book weeks ahead), The Scran and Scallie (Tom Kitchin's pub, GBP 15-25, no reservations after 5 PM). The quality-to-price ratio is significantly better than the tourist-facing restaurants in the Old Town. Bus 11 or 22 from Princes Street takes 20 minutes (GBP 1.80).
Royal Yacht Britannia on a weekday
The Britannia is most crowded on weekends and during school holidays. A weekday morning gives you the State Apartments, crew quarters, and engine room at your own pace. The audio guide (included in the GBP 19 ticket) covers every significant room. The contrast between the royal state rooms and the sailors' mess decks below is the central experience of the visit.
Pitt Market for weekend lunch
The Pitt on Pitt Street (Friday evening, Saturday and Sunday 11 AM-10 PM) has 15-20 street food traders across a covered and heated market space. GBP 8-14 for a main. The beer selection is good (local Scottish craft beers, GBP 5-7). It is the most honest representation of how Edinburgh actually eats in 2024, and it costs considerably less than a restaurant on The Shore.
Nearby Neighborhoods
Continue exploring
Old Town & Royal Mile
The medieval spine of Edinburgh: a volcanic ridge of closes, tenements, and wynds running from the Castle to Holyrood, with the best whisky bars, the most history, and the Grassmarket pubs below.
New Town & Princes Street
Edinburgh's Georgian answer to the Old Town: wide streets, crescents, and gardens planned in the 1760s, with the Scottish National Gallery, the best hotels, and the view of the Castle from Princes Street.
Holyrood & Arthur's Seat
The eastern end of the Royal Mile: the royal palace, the Scottish Parliament, and an extinct volcano rising to 251 metres above the city with nothing between the summit and the Firth of Forth.
Plan a trip featuring Leith
Get a personalized Edinburgh itinerary with Leith built in.
Start Planning