Plaza Mayor

A rectangular baroque plaza with painted facades, iron balconies, and a bronze equestrian statue of Philip III in the centre. Built between 1617 and 1619 under Philip III's reign, it has hosted bullfights, Inquisition executions, public markets, royal coronations, and, for a brief period in the 19th century, a covered market. The architecture is genuinely beautiful: the frescoed Casa de la Panaderia on the north side (originally the royal bakery, now housing the Madrid tourism office), nine arched entrances, and the uniformity of the four-storey red-brick buildings surrounding the square.

The proportions are satisfying in a way that photos don't capture. The plaza is a near-perfect rectangle (129 by 94 metres) with covered arcades on all four sides. The arched entrances frame views of the surrounding streets and create the feeling of entering a separate world, especially when approaching from the narrow side streets to the south.

Walk through, admire the frescoes and the proportions, take the obligatory photo under the arches, and leave immediately for Cava Baja or Mercado de San Miguel next door. Do not eat at any restaurant on Plaza Mayor. Every single one charges double for half the quality of a tapas bar five minutes away. This is not an exaggeration. The stamp and coin market under the arcades on Sundays is worth browsing. The Christmas market in December is touristy but atmospheric, with stalls selling nativity figures, decorations, and roasted chestnuts.