Puerta del Sol

The symbolic centre of Spain, where the Kilometre Zero plaque on the pavement marks the point from which all Spanish road distances are measured. The plaque is in front of the Real Casa de Correos (now the regional government headquarters), the building whose clock rings in the New Year for all of Spain. The tradition involves eating twelve grapes in twelve seconds as the clock strikes midnight, one grape per chime, and the square fills with thousands of people attempting this on December 31st.

The Bear and the Strawberry Tree statue (El Oso y el Madrono) on the east side of the square is Madrid's coat of arms and the city's most photographed non-museum object. The statue is smaller than expected but there's always a queue of people waiting to take a selfie with it.

Sol is not a destination in itself but a crossroads. Every metro line seems to converge here (lines 1, 2, and 3 actually do). You will end up here whether you planned to or not. The square is surrounded by shops, chain restaurants, and a permanent crowd of people heading somewhere else. The side streets leading south to Cava Baja and north to Malasana are more interesting than Sol itself.

Despite its tourist-heavy surface, Sol has one genuine treasure: Casa Labra, hidden on Calle de Tetuan two minutes from the square, has been serving cod croquetas for EUR1.50 each since 1860. The bar is standing room only at lunch and proves that even Sol has secrets if you know where to look.