Palazzo Altemps

Palazzo Altemps houses Rome's finest collection of ancient sculptures in a 15th-century cardinal's palace that's been beautifully restored. You'll find masterpieces like the Ludovisi Throne (a 5th-century BC Greek relief), the dramatic Galata Suicide sculpture, and the colossal Dionysus statue. The frescoed rooms and painted loggias create an aristocratic atmosphere that makes viewing these ancient works feel intimate rather than clinical.

The visit flows through ornate Renaissance rooms where sculptures are displayed like they're still part of a private collection. The painted ceilings and decorative walls provide gorgeous backdrops for marble gods and emperors. The courtyard loggia is particularly atmospheric, with ancient sarcophagi arranged around the covered walkway. Each room has a different character - some feel like grand salons, others like scholarly studies.

At €10 (€2 for EU students), it's Rome's best sculpture museum and criminally undervisited compared to the Capitoline Museums. Skip the ground floor quickly - the real treasures are upstairs. The Ludovisi collection on the first floor is extraordinary, but most people rush through it. The palace gets almost no crowds, so you can actually contemplate the art without being jostled by tour groups.