Florence
San Lorenzo & Mercato Centrale
The Medici church district: Michelangelo's sculptures in the New Sacristy, Brunelleschi's Old Sacristy, the central food market, and the outdoor leather market that surrounds it all.
About San Lorenzo & Mercato Centrale
Basilica di San Lorenzo is the parish church of the Medici family, rebuilt by Brunelleschi from 1419. The New Sacristy (also called the Medici Chapels, EUR 9.50 for the church complex, EUR 13 for the Chapels with separate entrance at the back) contains Michelangelo's tombs for Lorenzo and Giuliano de' Medici, with the allegorical figures of Day, Night, Dawn, and Dusk carved between 1520 and 1534. Michelangelo also designed the staircase for the Laurentian Library (EUR 9.50 separate or combined) - a three-branched staircase that flows like water, considered mannerism's founding architectural gesture. The Mercato Centrale (the cast-iron building on Via dell'Ariento) has a ground floor food market (butchers, fishmongers, lampredotto, cheese, vegetables - open until 2 PM) and an upstairs food hall (open until midnight). The outdoor leather market around the church is commercial and variable in quality.
Things to Do
Top experiences in San Lorenzo & Mercato Centrale
Basilica di San Lorenzo & Medici Chapels
San Lorenzo is the parish church of the Medici family, rebuilt by Brunelleschi from 1419, and the complex includes some of Michelangelo's most important architectural and sculptural work. The church (EUR 9.50) has Brunelleschi's Old Sacristy and Michelangelo's New Sacristy (also called the Medici Chapel), where the tombs of Lorenzo and Giuliano de' Medici are crowned by Michelangelo's allegorical figures of Day, Night, Dawn, and Dusk. The staircase leading to the Laurentian Library (EUR 9.50 separate or combined) was designed by Michelangelo and is considered a mannerist masterpiece - the staircase flows like a cascade of stone. The outdoor leather market around the church is commercial but lively.
Siena Day Trip from Florence
Siena is 75 km south of Florence and 75 minutes by bus (SENA/Tiemme express, EUR 9 one way, book online). The Piazza del Campo is the most beautiful public square in Italy - a shell-shaped medieval square surrounded by palaces on three sides and the Palazzo Pubblico on the fourth. The Duomo of Siena is more ornate and more personal than the Florentine cathedral, with the Piccolomini Library (EUR 4 supplement) containing 15th-century Pinturicchio frescoes that are remarkable. The Pinacoteca has Duccio and Simone Martini, the founders of Sienese painting. The city is car-free in the centro storico and easy to navigate on foot. Allow a full day - take the 8:30 AM bus, return on the 6 PM or 7 PM bus.
Cenacolo di Sant'Apollonia
This tiny former convent houses Andrea del Castagno's 1447 Last Supper fresco, one of Renaissance art's most psychologically intense works. You'll find yourself face to face with a masterpiece that influenced Leonardo da Vinci himself. The fresco covers an entire wall of what was once the Benedictine nuns' dining hall, showing Judas isolated on the viewer's side of the table while the other apostles react with shock and anger. The painted marble backdrop and brutal emotional realism make this work more raw and powerful than most religious art in Florence. The museum consists of just two small rooms, making your visit intimate and focused. You'll have the fresco mostly to yourself, able to study every detail of the apostles' expressions and Castagno's revolutionary perspective techniques. The silence in the former refectory adds gravity to the scene. Above the Last Supper, three smaller frescoes show the Crucifixion, Deposition, and Resurrection, completing the narrative. Most guidebooks barely mention this place, which keeps crowds away but means you might walk right past it. Admission is completely free, making it one of Florence's best art bargains. The visit takes 20 minutes maximum, so don't plan your whole morning around it. Pair it with the nearby Mercato Centrale or use it as a quiet break between the chaos of San Lorenzo's markets.
Florencephototour
This golden hour photography workshop takes you to Florence's most photogenic spots with actual professional photographers who know the technical side inside out. You'll hit Piazzale Michelangelo for the classic skyline shot, then move to Ponte Vecchio and along the Lungarno Torrigiani as the light changes. They provide camera equipment if you don't have your own, and the instruction covers real technical skills like HDR, manual exposure, and composition tricks that work specifically in Florence's tricky lighting. The 2.5 hour session follows the light as it changes, starting before sunset and continuing into blue hour. Your guide positions the group at each location's sweet spots and actually demonstrates settings on your camera rather than just talking theory. The pace feels relaxed but purposeful, moving between viewpoints as the light shifts from golden to deep blue. You'll end up with genuinely better photos than the usual tourist snapshots, plus you'll understand why certain settings work. Most photography tours rush through too many locations, but this one gets the timing right by focusing on just three prime spots. The guides are working photographers, not just tour leaders with cameras, which shows in their technical advice. Book directly through their basement office to avoid markup from booking sites. Skip this if you're already comfortable with manual camera settings, the instruction level is aimed at enthusiastic beginners to intermediate photographers.
Where to Eat
Restaurants and cafes in San Lorenzo & Mercato Centrale
Trattoria Mario
RestaurantLegendary lunch-only trattoria near San Lorenzo market operating since 1953. Communal marble tables, paper placemats, and Florentines queuing for ribollita and bistecca. No reservations, cash only, closes at 3:30pm sharp.
Nerbone
RestaurantHistoric stall inside Mercato Centrale operating since 1872, serving lampredotto sandwiches and bollito (boiled meat) to market workers and savvy visitors. Stand at the counter or grab a communal table. Closes at 2pm.
Mercato Centrale Firenze - Piano Superiore
RestaurantModern food hall on the second floor of the historic market with stalls from regional vendors. Florentine classics, fresh pasta, pizza, seafood, and wine bars under one roof. Open until midnight, communal seating.
Trattoria ZàZà
RestaurantLarge trattoria near San Lorenzo market with a garden terrace and extensive menu of Tuscan standards. Popular with tour groups but maintains quality with proper bistecca preparation and daily fresh pasta. Reservations recommended for dinner.
Trattoria Sergio Gozzi
RestaurantHidden lunch spot near San Lorenzo serving €13 fixed-price menu with primi, secondi, contorno, and wine. Tiny dining room, handwritten menu, and traditional Florentine home cooking. Lunch only, no reservations, cash preferred.
Gelateria dei Medici
CafeSmall artisan gelato shop near the Duomo making traditional flavors with modern techniques. Their crema fiorentina uses only egg yolks, milk, and sugar following Renaissance recipes. Portions are generous and prices fair at EUR 2.50 for small cups.
Getting Here
Insider Tips
Two entrances to San Lorenzo
The church (EUR 9.50, includes Brunelleschi's Old Sacristy and Michelangelo's New Sacristy) has one entrance. The Medici Chapels (EUR 13, the same New Sacristy with Michelangelo's tombs plus the baroque Prince's Chapel) have a separate entrance around the back on Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini. If you only want Michelangelo's sculpture, the Chapels entrance is the efficient route.
Lampredotto at the market
The Nerbone stand inside the Mercato Centrale has been serving lampredotto (tripe sandwich, EUR 5) since 1872. It is the genuine Florentine street food - boiled tripe, salsa verde, hot pepper sauce, in a roll. Eat it at the standing counter or take it outside. Ground floor, near the entrance. Open until 2 PM.
Leather market quality test
The outdoor leather market has a range from good to poor. Check stitching (should be tight and even), feel the leather (real leather is warm, not cold and plastic-feeling), and look at the lining. The vendors expect bargaining - offer 60-70% of the asking price on smaller items.
Nearby Neighborhoods
Continue exploring
Duomo & Piazza della Signoria
The monumental heart: the dome on the skyline, the Uffizi packed with masterpieces, Piazza della Signoria as a free open-air sculpture gallery. Dense with art and tourists. The trick is timing.
Santa Croce
The neighbourhood east of the Signoria, anchored by the basilica with its famous tombs. Less crowded than the Duomo district, with better restaurants and the leather school behind the church.
Oltrarno (Santo Spirito)
The south bank neighbourhood where Florentines live. Artisan workshops, neighbourhood trattorias, a piazza with a morning market and evening bars. A 5-minute walk from the crowds.
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